Утепление стен внутри помещения: как утеплить правильно?

Утепление помещения внутри – самый крайний способ, к которому стоит прибегать.

Ниже перечислены основные негативные моменты, которые могут возникнуть при утеплении помещения внутри.

При утепление стен изнутри в доме или квартире своими руками, немаловажно подобрать правильно утеплительный материал. Что в последствие значительно повлияет на тепло и комфорт в вашем доме.

Основные проблемы при утеплении стен изнутри

1. Необходимость завышенной толщины материала. Занижать толщину утеплителя не рекомендуется.
2. Необходимо предусмотреть пароизоляцию.
3. При утеплении стен внутри помещения сокращается срок службы ограждающих и несущих конструкций здания (стены отделяются от внутреннего отопления и страдают от перепадов температур, подвергаясь замораживанию и размораживанию), а образующийся конденсат между утеплителем и стеной приводит к образованию грибка.
4. Уменьшается внутренняя площадь помещения.
5. Пароизоляция создает высокую влажность в помещении, как следствие – необходимость создания повышенной вентиляции.
6. Утепление имеет высокую стоимость.

Также не рекомендуется выполнять утепление стен внутри в соответствии со строительными нормами СП 23-101-2004.

Если, несмотря на перечисленные негативные моменты, возникает необходимость утеплить стены изнутри, воспользуйтесь следующей инструкцией, следуя которой, можно производить утепление стены внутри помещения.

Схема утепления с двух сторон фольгированным полиэтиленом .

Основная проблема, которая возникает – температура самой стены не повышается, даже промерзает еще больше. Этот момент приводит к такому явлению, как передвижение “точки росы” (место, где вода из газообразного состояния переходит в жидкое) к внутреннему краю стен (или на поверхность стены). При этом процессе образующийся конденсат приведет в конечном итоге не только к разрушению самой стены, но и к разрушению слоя теплозащиты, вследствие чего потери тепла снова станут высокими.

Как этого избежать?

Вернуться к оглавлению

Способы утепления стен

Предлагается несколько вариантов, которые помогут избежать вышеперечисленных негативных последствий влияния конденсата на слои теплоизоляции и стены и выполнить качественное утепление правильно:

• с помощью пробкового материала;
• с помощью опилок;
• при помощи пеноблоков;
• с помощью пенополиуретана;
• при помощи материала “Пенофол”;
• использование “теплого пола” между стеной и утеплителем.

Вернуться к оглавлению

Варианты утепления

Пробковый материал обладает хорошими теплоизолирующими свойствами и обладает неплохими звукоизоляционными качествами. Он экологичен и не требует дополнительной эстетической доработки – стена, отделанная пробкой, выглядит вполне эстетично. Крепится легко с помощью дюбелей или клеится на поверхность.

Опилки. Может показаться, что в век высоких технологий использование опилок нецелесообразно, однако деревянные дома отлично удерживают тепло и создают здоровый микроклимат в помещении. Для того чтобы использовать опилки для утепления стен, необходимо смешать 10 частей опилок и 1 часть извести. Для предотвращения порчи стены грызунами опилки можно обработать раствором медного купороса.

Опилки — самый надежный и недорогой но эффективный способ защитить своё жильё от ненастной погоды.

При таком способе утеплить стены сначала изготавливается обрешетка, в которую засыпаются опилки (при засыпке их необходимо утрамбовывать, так как со временем они могут просесть).

Плюсы при использовании опилок:

• невысокая стоимость;
• экологичность материала;
• при соответствующей обработке материал неподвержен грызунам.

Недостатки:

• необходимость изготовления обрешетки;
• сокращение площади помещения;
• пожароопасность;
• необходимость эстетической отделки поверхности.

Пенобетон. Недорогой и качественный материал для того, чтобы утеплить помещение. Обладает хорошими теплоизоляционными свойствами. Производители выпускают плиты пенобетона разной толщины, поэтому следует оценить теплопотери помещения и выбрать блоки достаточной толщины. Материал легко монтируется на стены с помощью дюбелей или клея. Швы нужно залить монтажной пеной.

Схема устройства утеплённой стены.

Плюсы использования пенобетона:

• Невысокая стоимость;
• Нет необходимости постройки каркаса;
• Материал рассчитан на долгую эксплуатацию;
• Хорошо изолирует помещение от низких температур и звуков.

Недостатки:

• Сокращение площади помещения;
• Необходимость вентиляции, чтобы влага могла покидать помещение.

Пенополиуретан. В странах Европы этот материал используется давно и успешно. У нас он появился не так давно, поэтому стоит его взять во внимание. Материал обладает очень хорошими свойствами для теплоизоляции – он практически не пропускает тепло. Производитель дает гарантию на 25 лет эффективной работы материала.

Пенополиуретан — теплоизоляционный и влагозащитный материал, способен покрывать различные формы поверхности, тем самым заполняя в точности всей формы конструкции.

Материал представляет собой пенную массу, которую распыляют на поверхность. Она заполняет собой все трещины и пустоты, сразу схватывается. После того, как пенополиуретан засохнет, он образует ровную поверхность, непроницаемую для влаги и тепла.

Плюсы данного материала:

• невысокая теплопроводность;
• хорошие звукоизоляционные качества;
• быстрый монтаж;
• низкий вес – не окажет негативного влияния на конструкции;
• не сокращает площадь помещения;
• не требуется дополнительная изоляция от влаги;
• долгое время эксплуатации.

Недостатки:

• требуется специальное оборудование и бригада рабочих;
• материал разрушается от прямых солнечных лучей.

Материал “Пенофол”. Данный материал создавался специально для защиты помещений от холода, поэтому следует особенно внимательно его рассмотреть. Его свойства позволяют сохранить до 97% тепла. Производится из пенного полиэтилена, с 2 сторон покрыт алюминиевой фольгой.

Монтаж на стену достаточно прост: монтируется деревянный каркас из брусьев, на него крепятся листы пенофола. Стыки проклеиваются скотчем. Следует обратить внимание, что между листами материала и стеной необходимо оставить некоторое расстояние – это поможет удалению лишней влаги, что препятствует возникновению плесени и грибка.

Применение теплого пола. Новый, экспериментальный метод. Заключается в закреплении мата теплого пола на стену, тем самым достигается достаточный прогрев стены и избегается скопление влаги – достаточно в холода включать “теплый пол” в сеть.

90000 How to Insulate a Furnace Room | Home Guides 90001 90002 Insulating the walls and ceiling in a furnace room can reduce heating costs and make the furnace more energy-efficient. Rigid foam insulation is attached to the walls with adhesive, and to the ceiling with adhesive and roofing nails. Gaps around windows, doors and any pipes and vents that go through a wall or ceiling are sealed with silicone. Obtain the insulation and supplies at a building materials outlet based on the total square footage of the walls and the ceiling, and all gaps that must be sealed.In large furnace rooms and basements, the job is easier with the help of an assistant. 90003 90002 90005 Cleaning and Sealing Gaps 90006 90003 90002 Turn off the thermostat that controls the furnace. Put on safety glasses, a dust mask and work gloves. 90003 90002 Remove cobwebs and dust from the larger areas of the walls and ceiling with a push broom. Use a utility brush in smaller areas, and work from a stepladder, where necessary. Remove the debris from the floor and furnace with a shop vacuum.90003 90002 Set up a caulking gun with a tube of silicone sealant. Cut the tip of the tube with a utility knife to make a 1/4-inch opening. Seal any gaps at the edges of windows and doors. Seal around pipes and vent ducts that go through the walls or ceiling, working from the ladder when necessary. 90003 90002 90005 Insulating the Room 90006 90003 90002 Start at one wall. Apply a uniform layer of all-purpose adhesive from a 5-gallon container to the entire wall using an adhesive trowel.90003 90002 Start at one end of the wall. Press the first piece of 1-inch-thick rigid foam insulation firmly along the base of the wall at one end. Installing the pieces horizontally when possible is easier than installing them vertically. 90003 90002 Continue installing the first row of insulation along the base of the wall. Measure and cut a filler piece at the end of the wall, using a wood or metal straightedge as a guide for the utility knife. Save all pieces of cut insulation to use as fillers.90003 90002 Cover the wall with insulation. Take precise measurements and cut out portions, as needed, to fit pieces at windows and doors, or around pipes. Measure and cut filler strips that install along the upper portion of the wall and butt to the underside of the ceiling. 90003 90002 Repeat the procedure and insulate the remaining walls one at a time. 90003 90002 Position a portable scaffold or sawhorses and wood planks at one corner of the ceiling. Apply a uniform layer of adhesive on the back of a piece of foam insulation.Press the piece into place with one end and one edge tightly against the corresponding walls at the corner of the ceiling. Secure it with 1 + 1/2-inch roofing nails at 6-inch intervals along the edges, and at 12-inch intervals in the main portion of the piece. 90003 90002 Reposition the scaffold or sawhorses and wood planks, as necessary, and cover the ceiling with insulation using adhesive and roofing nails. Make precise cuts around pipes and vents that go through the ceiling, as well as any light fixtures.90003 90002 Seal the outer edges of the ceiling insulation where it meets the walls with silicone sealant. Apply additional sealant around windows, doors, pipes and vents. 90003.90000 Where to Insulate in a Home 90001 90002 You are here 90003 90004 Examples of where to insulate. 90005 90004 Oak Ridge National Laboratory 90005 90004 For optimal energy efficiency, your home should be properly insulated from the roof down to its foundation. The illustration above shows all the areas of the home where there should be insulation. The numbered areas shown in the illustration are as follows: 90005 90004 1.In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over the floor joists to seal off living spaces below. If the air distribution is in the attic space, then consider insulating the rafters to move the distribution into the conditioned space. 90005 90004 (1A) Attic access door 90005 90004 2. In finished attic rooms with or without dormer, insulate (2A) between the studs of «knee» walls, (2B) between the studs and rafters of exterior walls and roof, (2C ) and ceilings with cold spaces above. 90005 90004 (2D) Extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.90005 90004 3. All exterior walls, including (3A) walls between living spaces and unheated garages, shed roofs, or storage areas; (3B) foundation walls above ground level; (3C) foundation walls in heated basements, full wall either interior or exterior. 90005 90004 4. Floors above cold spaces, such as vented crawl spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate (4A) any portion of the floor in a room that is cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below; (4B) slab floors built directly on the ground; (4C) as an alternative to floor insulation, foundation walls of unvented crawl spaces.(4D) Extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows. 90005 90004 5. Band joists. 90005 90004 6. Replacement or storm windows and caulk and seal around all windows and doors. 90005 90004 In addition to insulation, consider moisture and air leakage control in each area of ​​your house. If radon is an issue where you live, you’ll also need to consider radon and radon-resistant construction techniques as you research foundation insulation options. In addition, if you live in an area with termites, you’ll have to consider how termite protection will affect the choice and placement of insulation in your home.90005 90004 Loose-fill or batt insulation is typically installed in an attic. Loose-fill insulation is usually less expensive to install than batt insulation, and provides better coverage when installed properly. See more on different types of insulation. 90005 90004 To find out if you have enough attic insulation, measure the thickness of the insulation.If it is less than an equivalent of R-30, you could probably benefit by adding more. Before insulating, seal any air leaks and make roof and other necessary repairs. If it is located in a conditioned part of the house, also remember to insulate and air seal your attic access. 90005 90004 Insulate and air seal any knee walls — vertical walls with attic space directly behind them — in your home as well. In addition, if you’re building a new home or remodeling, make sure any attic decking that provides additional storage space or a platform for a heating and / or cooling unit or hot water tank is raised above the ceiling joists to leave room for adequate insulation.If the air distribution system is not within the conditioned space but within the attic, insulating the rafters will enclose the distribution system. Finally, if you live in a hot or warm climate, consider installing a radiant barrier in your attic to reduce summer heat gain. 90005 90004 If the ducts in your home are in unconditioned space, seal and insulate them.If you’re building a new house, place ducts in the conditioned space to avoid the energy losses associated with most duct systems. 90005 90004 90002 Cathedral Ceiling Insulation 90003 90005 90004 Properly insulating your cathedral ceilings will allow ceiling temperatures to remain closer to room temperatures, providing an even temperature distribution throughout the house.Cathedral ceilings must provide space between the roof deck and home’s ceiling for adequate insulation and ventilation. This can be achieved through the use of truss joists, scissor truss framing, or sufficiently large rafters. For example, cathedral ceilings built with 2×12 rafters have space for standard 10-inch batts (R-30) and ventilation. Unvented (hot roof design) cathedral ceilings are also an option. The hot roof design allows more insulation to be installed in the roof cavity as the need for a vent space is eliminated.It is important that the roof cavity be totally air sealed from the conditioned space below to prevent moisture intrusion and roof degradation. 90005 90004 Foil-faced batt insulation is often used in cathedral ceilings because it provides the permeability rating often required for use in ceilings without attics. A vent baffle should be installed between the insulation and the roof decking to maintain the ventilation channel. 90005 90004 Consider using high-density R-30 batts, which are as thick as R-25 batts, but fit into 2×10 framing.You can also add rigid foam insulation under the rafters, which adds R-value and eliminates thermal bridging through wood rafters. However, rigid foam insulation must be covered with a fire-rated material when used on the interior of a building. Half-inch drywall is usually sufficient, but check with local building officials before installing. 90005 90004 If your attic has enough insulation and proper air sealing, and your home still feels drafty and cold in the winter or too warm in the summer, chances are you need to add insulation to the exterior walls.This is more expensive and usually requires a contractor, but it may be worth the cost-especially if you live in a very cold climate. If you replace the exterior siding on your home, consider adding insulation at the same time. 90005 90004 In an existing home, consider using blow-in insulation, which, when installed with the dense pack technique, will provide significant air sealing. It can be added to exterior walls without much disturbance to finished areas of your home. If you’re remodeling and your wall cavities will be open, look into two-part spray foam or wet spray cellulose insulation.If your wall cavities are not going to be open, you could consider injectable spray foam insulation. If you’ll be doing the work yourself, blanket (batt and roll) insulation, while not capable of providing an air seal as dense pack and two-part spray foam will, is an affordable option. 90005 90004 In a new home, first see our information about insulating a new home, which will help you choose from among the many types of insulation on the market. If you’re in the design phase of planning your new home, consider structural insulated panels, insulating concrete forms, and insulated concrete blocks.These materials literally have insulation built in, and houses built using these products often have superior insulating qualities and minimal thermal bridging. 90005 90004 If you’re building a traditional framed house, consider using advanced wall framing techniques. These techniques improve the whole-wall R-value by reducing thermal bridging and maximizing the insulated wall area. 90005 90004 Also consider using insulating wall sheathing rather than wood sheathing products, as they provide superior R-value.Foam sheathing: 90005 90056 90057 90004 Provides a continuous layer of insulation, which reduces thermal bridging through wood studs, saving energy and improving comfort. 90005 90060 90057 90004 Is easier to cut and install than heavier sheathing products. 90005 90060 90057 90004 Protects against condensation on the inside wall by keeping the interior of the wall warmer. 90005 90060 90057 90004 Usually costs less than plywood or oriented strand board (OSB). 90005 90060 90073 90004 If you replace plywood or OSB with foam sheathing, your walls will require bracing or other structural reinforcement.90005 90004 90002 Insulating Floors Above Unheated Garages 90003 90005 90004 When insulating floors above unconditioned garages, first seal all possible sources of air leakage. This strategy has the added benefit of minimizing the danger of contaminants (from car exhaust, paint, solvents, gardening supplies, etc.) In the garage migrating into the conditioned space. Also install an air barrier to prevent cold air in the garage from «short circuiting» the insulation underneath the subfloor. 90005 90004 In addition to reducing heating costs, a properly insulated foundation will keep below-grade rooms more comfortable and prevent moisture problems, insect infestation, and radon infiltration.In new construction, consider construction techniques that provide both foundation structure and insulation, such as insulating concrete forms and insulating concrete blocks. 90005 90004 During the construction process, many builders insulate the outside of foundation walls before backfilling. This strategy is possible but impractical and disruptive for existing homes. Optimal foundation insulation materials and placement vary by climate, so consult a local insulation professional if you’re planning a new home.90005 90004 A properly insulated basement can save you money on heating and provide a dry, comfortable living space. In most cases, a basement with insulation installed on its exterior walls should be considered a conditioned space. Even in a house with an unconditioned basement, the basement is more connected to other living spaces than to the outside, which makes basement wall insulation preferable to ceiling insulation.90005 90004 In new construction, adding insulation on the exterior of the basement walls will do the following: 90005 90056 90057 90004 Minimize thermal bridging and reduce heat loss through the foundation 90005 90060 90057 90004 Protect the damp-proof coating from damage during backfilling 90005 90060 90057 90004 Provide some protection against moisture intrusion 90005 90060 90057 90004 Make the foundation part of the thermal mass of the conditioned space, thereby reducing interior temperature swings 90005 90060 90057 90004 Reduce the potential for condensation on surfaces in the basement 90005 90060 90057 90004 Conserve room area, relative to installing insulation on the interior.90005 90060 90073 90004 In an existing home, adding insulation to the exterior of the basement walls is impractical. Interior basement wall insulation has the following advantages: 90005 90056 90057 90004 It is much less expensive to install than exterior insulation for existing buildings. 90005 90060 90057 90004 Almost any insulation type can be used. 90005 90060 90057 90004 It eliminates the threat of insect infestation. 90005 90060 90073 90004 Here are a few things to consider when installing interior basement wall insulation: 90005 90056 90057 Many insulation types require a fire-rated covering because they release toxic gases when ignited.90060 90057 Interior insulation reduces usable interior space by a few inches. 90060 90057 It does not protect the damp-proof coating like exterior insulation does. 90060 90057 If perimeter drainage is poor, the insulation may become saturated by moisture weeping through foundation walls. 90060 90057 Superior air-sealing details and vapor diffusion retarders are important for adequate performance. 90060 90073 90004 To determine appropriate R-values ​​for basement walls in your area, use these R-value recommendations.Then choose the type of insulation: 90005 90056 90057 Blanket (batt and roll) insulation 90060 90057 Insulating concrete blocks (new construction) 90060 90057 Foam board insulation 90060 90057 Insulating concrete forms (new construction) 90060 90057 Loose-fill insulation 90060 90057 Sprayed foam insulation (good choice for finished basements). 90060 90073 90004 Moisture control is particularly important for basements, because they are notorious for problems with water intrusion, humidity, and mold.90005 90004 How you insulate a crawlspace depends on whether it’s ventilated or unventilated. Most building codes require vents to aid in removing moisture from the crawlspace. However, many building professionals now recognize that building an unventilated crawlspace (or closing vents after the crawlspace dries out following construction) is the best option in homes using proper moisture control and exterior drainage techniques.90005 90004 If you have or will have an unventilated crawlspace, the best approach is to seal and insulate the foundation walls rather than the floor between the crawlspace and the house. This strategy has the advantage of keeping piping and ductwork within the conditioned volume of the house so these building components do not require insulation for energy efficiency or protection against freezing. The downside of this strategy is that rodents, pests, or water can damage the insulation and the crawlspace must be built airtight and the air barrier maintained.It’s best to locate the access door to the crawlspace inside the home through the subfloor unless you build and maintain an airtight, insulated access door in the perimeter wall. 90005 90004 Cold concrete slabs can be a source of discomfort in a home. An insulated slab is easier to heat, and placing the mass of the slab within your home’s thermal envelope helps moderate indoor temperatures.90005 90004 Insulating a slab in an existing home can be expensive and disruptive, but if the slab in your home is cold it is possible to dig around the perimeter of the house and install insulation, usually foam board. In most parts of the United States, insulating the exterior edge of a slab can reduce heating bills by 10% to 20%. 90005 90004 Installing slab insulation during the construction process is more straightforward. Slab insulation, typically foam board, is installed either directly against the exterior of the slab and footing before backfilling or under the slab and along the inside of the stem wall of the foundation.Construction details vary widely, so it’s best to consult a building professional in your area. Building America’s climate-specific publications also have useful construction details for different climate zones. 90005 90004 Termites can tunnel undetected through exterior slab insulation to gain access to the wood framing in a home’s walls. As a result, some insurance companies will not guarantee homes with slab insulation against termites. Building codes in several southern U.S. states prohibit installing foam insulation in contact with the ground.Slab foundations with interior insulation provide more termite resistance, but some builders in the southeastern United States have even reported termite infestations through foam insulation on contained slabs. 90005 .90000 How to Insulate Walls and Ceilings 90001 90002 Insulating walls is good. 90003 90002 Insulating ceilings is good. 90003 90002 But when you can do both? 90003 90002 You should high five yourself … 90003 90002 … because your home will be SUPER comfy. 90003 90002 Today you’ll learn how to insulate walls and ceilings the right way. 90003 90002 These tips instantly cut your utility bills and are not hard to do. 90003 90002 Let’s dive in. 90003 90018 90019 Today’s Backstory 90020 90021 90002 My buddy Bill put an addition onto his house.90003 90002 Let’s just say his family is expanding. 90003 90002 90003 90002 The walls and ceilings in Bill’s addition are open. 90003 90002 This presented us with a great opportunity to show you how to insulate a home. 90003 90002 Here are the supplies you need: 90003 90034 90035 R-21 for 2 x 6 Walls ($ 58 per bag) 90036 90035 R-38 for Ceilings ($ 58 per bag) 90036 90035 Gloves ($ 10) 90036 90035 Eyewear ($ 10) 90036 90035 Utility Knife ($ 5 $ 10) 90036 90035 Insulation Knife (optional) 90036 90035 Dust Mask ($ 3- $ 5) 90036 90035 Carpenter’s Square ($ 6) 90036 90051 90002 Adding insulation is pretty easy.90003 90002 But you can mess it up. 90003 90002 That’s one of the reasons we made this tutorial … to show you the right way. 90003 90002 90003 90018 90019 How to Insulate Walls 90020 90021 90002 What’s your first step? 90003 90002 90067 Measure 90068 the distance between studs. 90003 90002 Most homes have 16 inch on-center studs. 90003 90002 You might have 24 inch on-center studs, you gotta check. 90003 90002 Pretty sure my 11-year old daughter could handle this. 90003 90002 90003 90002 Insulation should fit snug agains the studs to prevent drafts.90003 90002 We chose Kraft-Faced R-21 for Bill’s walls because it’s the best option for 6 «studs. 90003 90002 90003 90002 Kraft-Faced insulation also helps prevent mold and mildew. 90003 90002 For cold climates, like Pittsburgh (GO STEELERS), you should have the paper face the interior of the house. 90003 90002 90003 90002 I personally like Johns Manville because it’s formaldehyde-free. 90003 90002 If you value yo 90003.90000 Garage Door Insulation | How to Insulate a Garage Door 90001 90002 Garage door insulation can make your life warmer, cooler, and quieter. It lowers energy bills, acts as a barrier between you and street noise, and brightens an otherwise dreary space. 90003 90002 Garage door insulation is an easy DIY project; it’ll cost you about $ 200 to insulate two 9-foot-wide doors. 90003 90006 Types of Insulation 90007 90002 Any insulation type will increase the energy efficiency of your garage door.Here are the most popular types to apply to the back of garage doors: 90003 90010 90011 90012 Batt insulation. 90013 This flexible insulation, often found stuffed into exterior walls, is commonly made of fiberglass. It’s usually backed by paper or foil, which act as vapor and air barriers. Insulating values ​​are R-3 to R-4 per inch of thickness. Cost is about 30 cents per square foot. 90014 90011 90012 Foam board insulation. 90013 These rigid panels, typically made from polystyrene, provide a high insulating value for relatively little thickness.Panels most often range from 1/2 inch thick (R-3.3) to 1 inch (R-6.5). Foam board often is faced with aluminum or vinyl. ($ 20 for a 4-foot-by-8-foot sheet that’s 1 inch thick.) 90014 90011 90012 Reflective insulation. 90013 Rigid boards and rolls of reflective insulation have highly reflective aluminum foil applied to one or both sides of insulation materials, such as cardboard and polyethylene bubbles. This type of insulation reflects radiant heat, making it a good insulation choice for garages that heat up in summer or hot climates.Its approximate R-value is 3.5 to 6, depending on the way you apply it. (A 4-foot-by-25-foot roll is $ 42). 90014 90023 90006 Popular Reads 90007 90026 90027 How to Disinfect Your Home in the Time of Coronavirus 90028 Cleaning & Decluttering 90002 A bleach solution or rubbing alcohol is your best bet for keeping your home sanitized. 90003 90027 7 Ways to Make Your Yard & Home a Bug-Free Zone 90028 Yard & Patio 90002 Be the home on the block that bugs run from.90003 90027 5 Questions To Ask When Buying A House 90028 Buy & Sell 90002 There are no dumb questions to ask a real estate agent. 90003 90039 90006 Matching Insulation to Your Garage Door 90007 90002 The goal is to match your garage door to an insulation that’s easy to install and appropriate for your climate. 90003 90002 90012 Steel garage doors. 90013 These doors can accommodate any type of insulation.Stuff the flexible insulation in the frames around the panels, with the fiberglass side touching the door. Or squeeze cut-to-fit foam board insulation into the frames. 90003 90002 90049 90050 90003 90052 Owens Corning 90053 90002 90012 Wood frame-and-panel doors. 90013 Cut and fit rigid insulation into the recesses between the door frames. For extra climate control, install two layers of foam board. 90003 90002 90059 90050 90003 90052 Columbia Water and Light 90053 90002 90012 Flat garage doors.90013 Foam board or reflective insulation is the best fit for garage doors without panels. Glue or tape the insulation to the garage door. 90003 90006 Insulation Kits 90007 90002 Even though buying and cutting insulation is not hard, garage door insulation kits make it even easier. They contain: 90003 90010 90011 Insulation — rolls or boards — cut closer to the size of garage panels than if you bought these yourself, though you’ll still have to trim. 90014 90011 Fasteners or tape to hold insulation in place.90014 90011 Higher-end kits throw in gloves and / or a utility knife. 90014 90023 90002 Kits to insulate a 9-foot-wide garage door cost $ 50 to $ 70. 90003 90006 Heads Up! 90007 90002 Adding insulation to a garage door adds weight. Extra weight is not usually a problem with 9-foot-wide doors, but can strain the opening mechanism of larger doors. Your garage door’s spring tension might have to be adjusted — a job best left to a garage door professional. 90003 .