Как построить забор из профнастила: установка (фото и видео)

Жители частного сектора предъявляют к заграждению своих домов разные требования. У кого-то на первом месте – это надежная защита, у кого – прочная конструкция, у кого – эстетический вид. А если хозяин планирует установить забор самостоятельно, то к требованиям еще можно включить и простоту монтажа и установки. Интересно, что забор из профнастила (металлопрофиль) отвечает всем этим требованиям. Тем более что и по цене установка заборов из профнастила выгодно выделяется на фоне заборов из других популярных материалов.

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Если Вы решили произвести монтаж забора из профнастила и его установку самостоятельно, то не переживайте, если у Вас нет опыта или специальных материалов. Технологию работы мы постараемся доступно объяснить в этой статье.

Немного о профильном листе

Но для начала хотелось бы перечислить Вам явные плюсы забора из металлического профнастила, чтобы Вы не сомневались, что сделали верный выбор в пользу этого материала:

• надежность профлиста, которая объясняется его гофрированной формой;
• высота конструкции по выбору хозяина;
• долговечность забора;
• ремонт любого отдельного элемента;
• широкий выбор цветов.

Самостоятельная установка забора из профнастила – это вызов лично себе, но если тщательно придерживаться инструкций и рекомендаций, тогда все вышеперечисленные плюсы можно будет ощутить на себе.

Профнастил — быстро и недорого

Для начала определимся с планом работы:

• Разметка территории и расчет материала
• Материалы и инструменты
• Технология монтажа и установки забора
• Дополнительные элементы и их монтаж
• Уход и эксплуатация забора

Видео-обзор забора из профнастила

Разметка территории и расчет материала

Прежде, чем купить все необходимые материалы, нужно произвести разметку территории и расчеты. Начнем:

1. Определитесь с местоположением забора и протяните по периметру шнур для ориентира. В углы намеченной площади забейте колышки, чтобы намотать на них леску (убедитесь, что они надежно установлены и не кренятся при натягивании).
2. Замеряйте длину будущей ограды, ворот и калитки. Обычно ворота ставят не больше 3 метров в ширину, а калитка приблизительно 1,5 метра.
3. Рассчитайте количество опор (столбов, стоек). Их число зависит от того, какой забор Вы планируете строить: сплошной или секционный. Если будущий забор будет сплошным, то расстояние между столбами должно быть 2-2,5-3 метра. Меньше его делать не нужно, ведь мы строим не несущую стену дома. А если расстояние сделать большим, то забор превратится в парус, и будет издавать громкий гул при ветре. Тем более что тогда понадобится увеличить толщину столбов и количество продольных перемычек. Если забор будет секционный, то число столбов будет зависеть от числа секций (метраж по периметру разделите на ширину профлиста). Не забудьте, что опоры нужно установить по углам забора и возле ворот и калитки.
4. Рассчитайте общую площадь профлиста. Есть простая рабочая формула – длину по периметру разделите на рабочую ширину листа. Купите про запас 1 лист на всякий случай. Существуют стандарты для профлистов, но Вам отрежут столько, сколько нужно.
5. Длину перемычек или лаг тоже высчитайте по формуле – две длины периметра плюс две длины ворот и калитки. Если забор выше 2 метров, то профессионалы советуют брать по три длины периметра.
6. При неровном ландшафте компенсируйте перепады уровня ленточным фундаментом.
7. Чтобы убедиться, что Вы все учли, перенесите свой проект на бумагу.

Как установить забор: пошаговая инструкция (видео)

Материалы и инструменты

Думаю, что к преимуществу можно отнести то, что почти все необходимые инструменты можно найти в гараже каждого хозяина. Нам понадобится:

• Сварочный аппарат, болгарка, шуруповёрт, ножницы по металлу и заклёпочник;
• Пузырьковый строительный уровень, рулетка и отвес;
• Емкости под раствор, опалубки, лопата, бур.

Рекомендации по выбору материала:

1. Профнастил с высотой волны 8-10 мм, не тоньше 0,5 мм. Листы должны быть идеально окрашены и торцевая планка по всей длине.
2. Столбы для опор. Их длина зависит от высоты забора. Опоры могут быть деревянные, каменные, металлические. Отдавайте преимущество готовым столбам, потому что их не нужно окрашивать и резать и они продаются с заглушками, что исключает попадание воды.
3. Поперечные перемычки или лаги – это легкие прочные трубы. Выбирайте трубы с толщиной стенки не больше 1,5 мм, чтобы не просверливать отверстия, а просто вкрутить саморезы.
4. Крепежи из кровельных саморезов, окрашенные в цвет покрытия.
5. Цемент, песок, щебень, битый камень, старый кирпич.
6. Краска.

Варианты профнастила

Технология монтажа и установки забора

Очистите поверхность грунта от мусора и всего, что будет мешать работе.

Лист профнастила начинает разрушаться именно в том месте, где он соприкасается с землей. Также камни, и разного рода мусор может повредить поверхность материала в нижней его части. Если поверхность земли не выровнять, то это затруднит установку столбов. Поэтому этап установки фундамента под забор из профнастила – неотъемлемая часть монтажа такого типа забора.

Подготовительные работы

Все о фундаменте для забора

Тогда возникает логичный вопрос, – какого типа фундамент должен быть? Это можно определить, внимательно изучив почву, на которой будет стоять ограждение. Однако заботы такого типа достаточно легкие, и для них подходит обыкновенный мелкозаглубленный фундамент. Обычно он копается глубиной 40 см. Ширина зависит от того, какой толщины опорный столб.

Фундамент для забора

О том, как именно заливать бетоном фундамент в этой статье писать нет смысла. Однако здесь важно выяснить один момент – какая должна быть глубина угловых опорных столбов? Обычно она составляет 0,3 от всей высоты столба. Если столб промежуточный – глубина должна составлять 0,25 от его высоты. Такой подход позволит защитить забор от воздействия подземных вод во время их замерзания.

Если у вас есть опыт или вы видели как делается ленточный фундамент дома или беседки, то подготовить и установить опалубку не составит труда, потому что принципы работы в этих случаях одинаковы.

Самое первое, что нужно сделать – это установить основные опорные столбы. Затем между ними натягивают веревку, по которой монтируются остальные столбы. Там где будут стоять стойки, нужно выкопать грунт(обычно это делается с помощью бура). После этого нужно высыпать подушку из щебня, на которую затем монтируются столбы. Столбы из металла необходимо пройти специальным раствором, который будет защищать его от коррозии.

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Опыт показывает, что если столбы забетонировать на 15 см вглубь, это придаст больше устойчивости, когда опалубка будет армироваться и заливаться бетоном. Если вы планируете утрамбовывать столбы, то подушка должна быть около 25 см, и столбы нужно в нее забить. Хотя это сделать сложнее, но такой метод более надежный.

Когда будете устанавливать стойки, не поленитесь воспользоваться такими нужными инструментами как отвес и уровень.

Если фундамент не планируется, то такой вариант намного упрощает задачу. При установке столбов параметры сохраняются – глубина 0,3 или 0,25 от высоты столба, высота подушки – 15 см, обязательная обработка средством от коррозии, установка под уровень и качественная заливка бетоном.
Если почва достаточно твердая, то допустимо отклонение от написанной выше технологии. Далее приведены другие методы монтирования столбов.

Подготовительные работы при установке забора очень важны

Крепление профнастила (видео)

Крепится профнастил обычно на поперечные рейки. Они устанавливаются на столбы, когда те, в свою очередь, уже залиты бетоном. Пока он не застыл, лучше не торопиться, иначе это может повредить вертикальный уровень столбов.

Поперечная рейка зачастую крепится на болтах или приваривается. Кронштейны, с помощью которых прикручиваются рейки к столбу, делают конструкцию более надежной.

Варианты крепления реек к столбам

Если на вашем участке большой уклон, рейки нужно смещать по вертикали. Когда каркас будет готов, его обязательно нужно будет обработать средством против коррозии или покрасить.

Монтаж забора с уклоном земли

Теперь можно приступить к креплению профлиста на забор. Это делается руками с использованием саморезов. Лист сначала прикладывают к каркасу, потом с помощью уровня его ровно выставляют. Затем лист прикручивают саморезами. То сколько будет саморезов, зависит от количества поперечных реек.
Последующие листы устанавливаются внахлест друг на друга.

Дополнительные элементы и их монтаж

Можно сказать, что установка забора из профнастила почти закончена. Чтобы забор выглядел более красиво и его крайняя верхняя часть не разрушалась от воздействия дождей, производителями и опытными мастерами рекомендуется установить специальную декоративную П-образную планку на верхнюю часть профнастила. Это также защитит пользователя от порезов о кромку забора.

Планка монтируется очень просто – ставится сверху листа. Чтоб она подошла нужно подобрать правильную ширину. Если высота волны профнастила – 8 мм, то ширина планки должна быть 10 мм.

Планка для профлиста

При декоративном оформлении заметьте, что профнастил красится только с фасадной стороны. Со стороны двора забор неокрашен. Эту проблему можно решить, если засадить по периметру забора растения.

Уход и эксплуатация забора

В ходе использования забора он может поцарапаться. Для обработки царапин обычно используют бесцветный лак или специальную краску. Благодаря этому, материал не будет поддаваться коррозии и прослужит намного дольше. Чтобы сохранить красивый внешний вид забора, можно время от времени мыть его фасадную часть.

 

90000 How To Stop A Dog From Digging Under A Fence — Dog-Proof Fence 90001 90002 I need to 90003 dog proof a fence 90004. I recently got a new 55 lb rescue pit / boxer mix dog that keeps 90003 digging under my 6 ‘foot wooden fence in my backyard 90004. We have used concrete blocks, pieces of wood, 2 × 4’s, rocks, and bricks to put near the bottom of the fence. This dog is super strong and can move just about anything. The dog can remove concrete cinder blocks, bricks, 2x4s, and rocks that we have placed along the bottom of the fence to try and 90003 prevent the constant digging 90004.My yard is medium sized so a solution that is not very expensive would be nice. The soil here is dirt and clay material and super easy to dig through especially when it rains and the ground is wet. 90003 What is the best way or proven solutions to DOG PROOF my fence? 90004 90011 90002 90013 90003 HOW TO DOG PROOF YOUR FENCE 90004 90011 90002 90003 Here are 5 solutions that have been proven to work to make your dog stop digging under your fence … 90004 90011 90002 90003 1. 90004 Bury a 3 to 4 foot tall 90003 chicken wire fence 90004 about 1.5 to 2 feet deep. Bend it into an L shape so it touches the ground and the fence. Then dig 1 or 2 feet down near the bottom of the wood fence. Use a staple gun on the top 1 to 2 feet of the chicken wire and secure it to the wooden fence. Next, bury the other end of the chicken wire and cover it up with dirt. Add huge rocks to where the most digging happens. This may not be the best way but it does provide a «shield» so the dog can not dig through it. 90011 90002 90003 2. 90004 Buy some 90003 railroad ties 90004 and line the entire bottom edge of the wood fence.If you want them to stay in place, stake them with 90003 rebar 90004 every 20 inches. This is back breaking work but it can solve the problem and your doggy will never leave your yard again. 90011 90002 90003 3. 90004 Use a strong hot pepper powder. Use the hottest 90003 capsicum pepper powder 90004 you can find. Then spread it on the digging areas near the fence. Do this every two weeks and it is almost guaranteed your large or small puppy will never dig there again. 90011 90002 90003 4.90004 Rebar with 90003 bricks 90004 or 90003 concrete blocks 90004 can work well too. Hammer 3 to 4 foot pieces of rebar into the dirt a few inches from the bottom of the fence. Once the rebar is in place, put the large bricks or concrete blocks where the rebar goes right into the holes of the bricks. 90048 Once the bricks are in place use plastic caps on the ends of the rebar for safety. 90049 Cover the bricks with dirt if needed. If you do not want to use rebar (since it may be difficult to cut many pieces) you can use 4 foot long (and thick) 90003 wooden stakes 90004.The wood stakes can be used but may not be a true permanent solution rather than using rebar. 90011 90002 90003 5. 90004 Get an 90003 invisible fence 90004. A good one to use is the 90003 Innotek Basic In-Ground Pet Fencing System 90004. You simply staple the wire to your normal fence. To test it make sure to turn the range all the way down. Then put the invisible fence collar on your dog. When your doggy gets close enough to the wire, your dog will start to figure out not to go near the fence again.These digging deterrent systems do not hurt your dog, they simply make them slightly uncomfortable enough to deter them. Start with the setting on as low as possible. 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Contact here 90082 90092 More «Do It Yourself» DIY Tips, Tricks, Ideas, Repair: 90093 90082 90082 90002 Tagged as: chain link, dig proof fence, digging, dog, dog digging under fence solutions, dogs, fence, how to dog proof fence, invisible fence, metal, prevent, pvc, stop, wood 90011.90000 How to Build a Board On Board Cedar Fence 90001 90002 The time has come for me to replace this tired old fence around our property. The old 6 ‘pine privacy fence has been holding up reasonably well since 1979 but has reached the end of its rope. We’ve done our best to nurse it along for a few years but it’s finally time to take it off life support and replace it. To replace it, I’ll be building a board on board cedar fence to give our backyard complete privacy. Fortunately the original owner of this home installed heavy-duty 3-½ «steel posts and set a concrete footer around the entire perimeter of the property so I will not have to replace the posts.However, almost all of the other steps in this tutorial can apply directly to someone who is looking for a guide on how to replace their privacy fence and upgrade to a board on board cedar fence. 90003 90002 90005 Things I Used In This Video: 90006 90003 90002 [one_third] 90003 90002 Ear Plugs 90011 Triton Multi-Stand 90011 Port-A-Band Saw 90011 Port-A-Band Saw Stand 90011 Sitting Stool 90011 Triton Circular Saw 90011 Face Shield 90003 90002 [/ one_third] 90003 90002 [one_third] 90003 90002 Face Shield 90011 Grinder 90011 Welding Hood 90011 Welding Gloves 90011 Welding Jacket 90011 Welding Magnets 90003 90002 [/ one_third] 90003 90002 [one_third_last] 90003 90002 Welder 90011 MIG Pliers 90011 Chainsaw 90011 Triton Impact (small) 90011 Triton Impact (large) 90011 Shade Canopy 90003 90002 [/ one_third_last] 90003 90002 Alright first off, lets talk about choice of material and cost! 90011 I had this job quoted by a couple of companies and all of the bids came in at just over $ 10,000.Eek, that’s steep. Since I do not mind the work, I decided to tackle the job myself. I got pricing quotes on material from several companies, including the big box store and after hearing the numbers I purchased our fencing material through a local supplier; the bill was just over 5k for 290 ‘worth of board on board # 2 cedar pickets (that are pre stained), 2 × 6 top cap, and 1 × 4 upper trim. 90003 90002 90046 Reasons I did not go through the big box store: 90005 90006 90049 90003 90051 90052 The big box store does not sell material that is pre stained.That is not so bad in itself but the problem is the stain was going to cost me $ 500 alone and at least a day in labor, whereas I could buy pre stained material through a local supplier and it come out to $ 50 cheaper than the big box store quote. (That really made the choice for me there). 90053 90052 The big box store does not sell cedar 2x4s. Since I’m going with cedar pickets I wanted to go with cedar 2x4s for the stringers so that it all matched and looked nice but the big box store only sells them in pine.Even stained, they would also look different. 90053 90052 They also do not sell 16 ‘2x6s. The top cap of the fence is made by a 2 × 6 laying on top of the fence, and it’s really nice having the choice of going with a longer joint of material but if you go through the big box store then you will be limited to 8 ‘joints for the top cap. 90053 90058 90002 I am by no means telling you not to go through the big box stores, I’m just simply explaining my reasoning for going with a local supplier so you can understand my thought process.90003 90002 When looking at buying cedar pickets there are two tiers of quality, # 1 and # 2. I considered opting for the more expensive # 1 picket for reasons of appearance and fewer knots, but every local fencing contractor I spoke with told me I would not really notice the difference. Consequently, I chose # 2 pre-stained pickets. You can save a little money by going with raw material and applying the stain yourself. However when the fence is complete, there will be a small portion of the picket which is not treated because of the board on board arrangement.Additionally, the supplier of my material uses a «dip stain» process where the entire picket is submerged in fluid where it sits for a while to absorb the stain / sealer. This is more effective at protecting the picket than a conventional spray-on stain / sealer. 90003 90002 90003 90002 Lastly, I chose to use cedar stringers (sometimes called rails or runners) rather than pine. Some builders prefer pine stringers and say that it’s more durable and long lasting than cedar. However, others say the exact opposite about the issue.Ultimately I went with cedar since it will be much closer in color to the fence than the pine ever could be (even after staining them) and we will just make sure we stay on top of keeping the material well treated in this crazy Texas weather. 90003 90002 We got really lucky with the previous owner of the house because he installed 3-1 / 2 «diameter, 1/4» wall steel pipe for posts … ..he obviously did not want it going anywhere. This is awesome because it means we do not have to replace any of the posts and if we were replacing the fence with a standard picket fence then no changes to the posts would need to happen.However, since we are upgrading to a board on board fence, the poles need to be extended to span the full height of the fence to give it the support it needs. 90003 90002 Now lets talk about the dimensions I went with … 90003 90002 When completed, my fence will measure 74-1 / 2 «tall. This is the measurement from the ground to the top of the top cap. The pickets measure 72 «. Since we have a concrete footer, I am going with a 1 «gap between the bottom of the picket and the concrete footer, this means I needed to extend all of my posts to 73».90005 90006 If you do not have a concrete footer then I recommend going with a standard 2 «gap to prevent premature decay of the bottom pickets. If you go with a 2 «gap the top of your posts will need to measure 74» from the ground. 90003 90002 Before getting into the nitty gritty details of the new fence, here are a few photos of the old fence — do not judge me:) 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 To start, the first thing I did was remove all of the plastic caps which were on top of the steel posts.For this I simply used an old piece of scrap wood and a hammer and worked the cap from side to side as I drove it upward and off of the post. 90003 90002 90003 90002 It’s safe to say the posts were originally cut with a cutting torch since the ends of them were kind of crooked and all 38 were cut to different heights. Rather than having to use a tape measure and measure from the concrete footer to the highest point of each post every time, I devised a simple little measuring stick. I cut a piece of scrap material at exactly 73 «long and then cut the first three feet off of an old junk tape measure.I then attached the 3 ‘section of tape measure to the piece of material with small wood screws. This makes it much easier to place the «measuring stick» against the pole and then quickly glance at the portion with the tape to get a dimension on the extension piece. 90003 90002 90003 90002 On average, the poles needed about 8-1 / 2 «of added length. Multiply that over all the posts I have and that put my steel order at about 30 ‘of extension material. To the Google box I went and found a local supplier who had the material on the shelf in 10 ‘joints.90005 Note: 90006 If you are local to the Dallas / Fort Worth area, I went with Discount Steel. 90003 90002 To cut the steel I’m using a portable band saw that Milwaukee recently sent me (aka «port-a-band») and a mobile base that very quickly turned the port-a-band into a stationary unit. This worked perfectly for making good clean repeatable cuts through this 1/4 «wall material. When using one of these saws, make sure your material is level and square. Also you do not have apply pressure to the cut, just let the weight of the tool advance the progress of the cut for you.90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90005 Note: 90006 This portion of the tutorial obviously does not apply to those who are building their fence from scratch. Standard length poles can be bought off the shelf and will not require modifications. 90003 90002 90005 Welding on the Pole Extensions 90006 90003 90002 It was finally time to make some sparks! Have I mentioned that I love welding ?? I mean really — I love it! Although the pole extensions were time consuming, it was a lot of fun and really good practice for me.If you’re in the market for a welder, the Lincoln Electric 210 MP is where it’s at … .super easy to use. 90003 90002 90003 90002 To begin attaching the extensions I first had to go to each posts and cut away a few pickets to give me access to the back of the posts so that I would have room to weld. I did this with my circular saw but when I reached the section of my fence where an extension cord did not reach, I switched to using a chainsaw. 90003 90002 To start welding I used 3 right angle welding magnets to hold the extension in place.I would then double check the placement to make sure it was inline with the pole, tack it in three places, and finally weld the entire joint. However I’ll admit that this is a bit easier said than done. I learned quickly this welder pulls more current than my outdoor outlets had to offer. Consequently I made my way to the local big box store where I got my hands on a heavy-duty gas generator through their tool rental program. The generator was a pain to lug around but it worked perfectly. 38 poles later and I was done.I really do not know how those pipeline welders do it — aside from the 100+ degree Texas heat, wearing all of the protective gear while operating a welder is no easy task! 90005 Note! 90006 My poles are painted silver and not galvanized. Remember that if your poles are galvanized then it’s toxic to weld and will require a respirator that protects against toxic fumes. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 After all the extensions were welded on, I went back and gave them all a quick coat of paint to give them a coat of protection.I was not able to match the previous paint that’s on the pole exactly but I was not concerned because I’ll be building boxes around the posts when it’s all said and done. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90005 Tearing Down the Old Fence 90006 90003 90002 I could now put my focus on some deconstruction of the old panels, and I must say, this was a fun step. 90003 90002 Now most fences use lag bolts to secure the panels to the post brackets, however my fence was held on with carriage bolts. Eh. This means to remove the old panels I had two choices: Remove each of the nuts from the brackets holding the stringer to the fence post then wrestle the whole 8 ‘panel loose.Orrrrrr, I could use a chainsaw and cut off the bulk of the panel then just work off a small 1 ‘section. If you’ve been following my work up to this point I do not think you need any help guessing which direction I went:) 90003 90002 90003 90002 So there I was sawing through my first panel — 15 seconds and the whole thing fell to the ground. Totally the right choice! I cut all of the stringers as close to the brackets as possible and my husband muscled them to the curb in a nice neat pile.I made sure to cut in between pickets, only cutting the 2 × 4 stringer, so that I could avoid hitting any nails. We repeated this process until the entire section of the fence was removed from the poles. 90003 90002 90005 Note: 90006 We are only doing one section of our fence at a time because we and all our neighbors have animals. So instead of demoing all three sides at once we would tear down one section then build it back up, then repeat with the next side. If you do not have animals to worry about then it would be much easier to do one step completely throughout the entire fence before moving to the next.90003 90002 The next step was to remove the small amount of material still attached to the pole that was left behind from dropping the panels. This part went pretty smooth. I use an impact and socket to remove all the nuts from the carriage bolts then kicked or hammered the material off. 90005 Note: 90006 when removing the old hardware I just let it drop to the ground and later came back with a magnet. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90005 Installing the Fence Stringers 90006 90003 90002 At this point I was almost ready to start hanging some material up but since I extended the poles the brackets needed to be shifted around slightly to span the new distance.The bottom bracket did not need to be moved but the top bracket needed to be placed at the very top of the posts so that when the stringer is attached, its top edge is level with the top of the post. The middle bracket simply got secured at the middle point between the top and bottom bracket. 90003 90002 After all the brackets were in their final position, I began attaching the stringers. Since this part is a two person job, I enlisted the help of my husband. The stringers are held to the bracket using 1/4 «x 1-1 / 2» zinc coated lag bolts.These have a 1/2 «hex head and drive into the stringer very easily with the help of an impact drill. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90005 Note: 90006 My fencing job required about 700 lag bolts. I was able to save 75 $ on the cost of bolts by buying from a local supplier instead of the big box store. If you are in the Dallas / Fort Worth area, I used Fort Worth Bolt and Tool. 90003 90002 Hanging the stringers was pretty straightforward. The posts are about 93 «apart so each one of the 8 ‘2 × 4 stringers got cut down a little bit.We would then position the bracket on the middle of the stringer, drive in one lag bolt on one side, make sure it was level, then begin driving in the remaining bolts. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90005 Note: 90006 My impact driver has loads of torque and would strip the hole out quickly if I was not careful. If you’re repeating this project be careful to not turn your threaded hole into mush by over tightening. 90003 90002 Ok and that’s where I have to stop for this week. This is a huge job so I’m having to break up the tutorial over a few posts.If you’re still motivated to learn more check out part 2 of this build where the fence begins to take shape! 90003 90002 PART 2 — PICKETING THE FENCE 90003 90002 If you want to see an overview of the building process then check out the video I put together: 90003 90002 90180 90181 90003 .90000 How to Install Empire Fencing From Lowe’s 90001 90002 Saving My Garden From the Puppy 90003 90004 Every year I try to grow some sort of vegetable garden. I’ve had a wide variety of successes and failures. This year was a bit different than past seasons. This year we have a puppy. She is a wonderful animal, but she has something against any kind of living plant that was in our backyard. She even went as far as trying to dig up the apple trees and pear trees that were only there for two years.Luckily she did not dig too deep, I was able to thwart her by placing stones at the base of each tree. 90005 90004 We finally decided that we needed some sort of gate to keep her out of part of the yard so we could grow something this year. We went to Lowe’s and priced some of the fencing. We looked into the plastic stuff, but I knew it would not last more than a year or two. We looked into several of the wooden versions, but I really did not want something that was going to be difficult to put together and I did not what to have to attach it to the fence or the deck.90005 90004 We chose the Empire Base Fencing from Lowe’s. If we bought it new, it would have cost us about $ 280. We went home and looked on Craigslist and found it used for $ 5 per section. That dropped the price down to $ 91. It was a great discount and the fencing was in great shape. I thought I would take a moment and show you how to install it if you decide to get this fence for your own yard. 90005 90004 So I could keep the fence straight as I installed it I ran a bit of twine from the deck to the fence.This helped me to make sure the fence was going to be straight as I put it together. There are several other ways to do this. You could run a chalk line or spray paint your line. You could eyeball it, but I did not want to risk it. 90005 90004 If you just pound your stake into the ground without looking, then things will most likely not line up when you go to slide your post through the fence and into the stake. Then you will have to pull it out and hammer it in again. This is a lot more work than I am willing to put into my fence, so I constantly made sure that the fence was lining up with the stake after every few blows of the hammer.90005 90004 The idea is to get the stake started. You do not what to hit the stake too hard or you will start to deform the stake. Then the post will not fit into the stake. Double check your alignment. You do not want to get the stake driven into the ground just to find you will have to pull it out again. 90005 90004 This is when you are going to need a bit of strength. You can get out all that frustration and get a little bit of a workout at the same time. Make sure you use a 2×4 or another piece of wood to hit with the hammer.This will allow you to pound in the stake without doing any damage to it. 90005 90004 I try to make sure the cross pieces are below the dirt surface so no one will kick it and hurt their foot. If the hole of the gate swings evenly over the hole of the stake, you are in good shape. If you are off by a little bit, you can use your hammer to knock the stake over a millimeter or two. If you are off by more than that you will have to pull it out and start over. I find a pair of pliers work well to get it back out.90005 90004 Did you get the stake driven in straight? This is where you find out if you did a good job. Slide your post through the holes on both pieces of fence. Then slide the post into the stake. You may have to make a few adjustments and pound with your hammer lightly, but do not scar your new gate. 90005 90004 I found if you use the same 2×4 to knock the post into the stake, you will have an easier time getting the post to sit a bit lower. If you can make them all even, then they will look better.90005 90004 What I like about this Fence is that I can Pull it all out and put it somewhere else. I can move it. I can paint it every year to keep it from getting rusty. It is made out of metal, so it should last for a while. I look forward to planting my garden behind it. 90005 .90000 All About Coroplast & the Versatility of Corrugated Plastic Signs 90001 90002 90003 Corrugated plastic. Cor-plastic. Coroplast. 90004 This sign and plastic sheeting material has many names and even more uses. Due to its unique blend of durability and affordability, corrugated plastic board is an incredibly popular choice for short-term signage and containers. 90005 90002 If you are considering using corrugated plastic in an upcoming project, here is everything you need to know and consider about this highly versatile material.90005 90008 What is Coroplast? 90009 90002 Coroplast is the trademarked brand name of the world’s largest producer of corrugated plastic. Corrugated plastic boards are essentially plastic cardboard, and are made from three layers of thin, polypropylene plastic substrate. The product consists of a zig-zagged layer of plastic sandwiched between two smooth layers of plastic sheeting — also known as twin-wall plastic sheeting. Coroplast’s layered structure makes corrugated plastic incredibly lightweight and shock absorbent.90005 90002 90013 90005 90008 What is polypropylene? 90009 90002 Polypropylene, often abbreviated PP or referred to as a # 5 plastic, is a thermoplastic polymer that is incredibly stable. Polypropylene is ideal for Coroplast projects because it is chemically inert and has a neutral pH — that means that it can be exposed to heat, cold, chemicals, and solvents without degrading. Furthermore, polypropylene is chemically stable enough that it can be mixed with additives to give the resulting material special properties, like flame retardancy, UV-protection, static resistance, or bright custom colors.90005 90008 What are the advantages of using corrugated plastic boards? 90009 90002 Coroplast is a unique blend of durable, affordable, lightweight, and pliable. This combination makes it incredibly versatile such that it can be used in all sorts of projects and displays. 90005 90002 90003 Durability 90004 — Coroplast board is not invincible and is not meant to be displayed forever, but it can take a serious beating from the rain, the sun, or human handling before showing any signs of aging.Coroplast also is impervious to damage from insects and rodents. 90005 90002 90003 Affordability 90004 — Coroplast is the market’s most inexpensive material for outdoor display. Printing onto and cutting Coroplast is a straightforward and inexpensive process that does not require highly specialized equipment. 90005 90002 90003 Lightweight 90004 — Transporting, distributing, and displaying Coroplast is complication-free. You definitely will not have to worry about the wall collapsing or anyone losing a toe should it fall.90005 90002 90003 Pliability 90004 — Coroplast is sturdy enough to lay flat on its own, but flexible enough to give you a lot of options. Cut it, bend it, staple it, punch holes in it for grommets … whatever you need to do! 90005 90002 90040 90005 90008 What are common uses of corrugated plastic? 90009 90002 The most common use of corrugated plastic is for temporary outdoor signage, especially for yards. Campaign signage, home security notices, real estate signs, «for sale» signs, and parking signs are all examples of outdoor signs that are often made from corrugated plastic boards.90005 90002 Coroplast can also be used to construct containers and packaging. Being both lightweight and sturdy, many postal services construct mail carriers out of Coroplast. 90005 90002 90049 90005 90008 Lifespan of corrugated plastic 90009 90002 Like any material, the lifespan of your Coroplast display depends on the conditions it is subjected to. When displayed outdoors in normal conditions, Coroplast will normally last about a year before it may begin to show a bit of warping or discoloration.When laminated with a matte finish for extra protection, a coroplast sign will look its best for longer. Coroplast can last virtually forever when kept indoors and not subjected to much wear and tear. 90005 90008 Coroplast sign printing 90009 90002 Corrugated plastic is a fabulous material for printing. Either an image can be printed onto acrylic and then applied to the Coroplast, or the graphic can be printed directly onto the plastic. Because the plastic sheeting usually comes in a bright white color, the full color spectrum looks great on corrugated plastic.90005 90002 90060 90005 90008 Is polypropylene recyclable? 90009 90002 Yes! Corrugated plastic made from polypropylene is 100% recyclable under Resin Code 5. How to recycle polypropylene depends on where you live. Not every curbside recycling program will accept it, but any recycling facility will. Prior to recycling your Coroplast board, remove any accessories that are not made of polypropylene, like metal stakes or grommets used in display. Your recycled corrugated plastic can be melted down and reformed for a wide variety of uses, especially for household wares made from plastic like bins, brooms, ice scrapers, and trays.90005 90066 90002 Your old corrugated plastic sheets can be recycled into a number of common household plastic products. 90005 90002 It is also important to note that polypropylene is not biodegradable, so it is best if you opt to recycle your old corrugated plastic boards rather than throwing them in the trash where it will end up in a landfill. 90005 90008 Is polypropylene toxic? 90009 90002 Polypropylene # 5 plastic is non-toxic for humans and animals at a wide range of temperatures. Where many other plastics leach poisonous BPAs, Coroplast is safe for the whole family.Polypropylene is considered the by the FDA to be among the safest plastics available because it is so heat resistant — even scalding hot beverages can be served in polypropylene containers without any toxins leaching out. Some polypropylene containers are even manufactured to be microwave safe. This means your corrugated plastic boards are food-safe, non-toxic, and perfectly reusable. 90005 90008 Ways to reuse corrugated plastic 90009 90002 All finished with your Coroplast signs? Coroplast board is recyclable, but it is also a highly reusable product.Corrugated plastic is an incredibly useful material to have around the house if you are crafty. Save those sheets to make some neat Coroplast projects of your own! 90005 90002 Coroplast is non-toxic and food-safe (unlike PVC), so it is safe to use around children and animals. In recent years, owners of small animals like guinea pigs and ferrets have taken to using Coroplast to build homemade cages and playgrounds for their pets. If you are baby-proofing your house, you can use it to wrap sharp corners and barricade anything that might be tempting for your child to climb on.Because corrugated plastic is waterproof and retains its structural integrity, you can build some pretty useful things out of it. Attach several sheets to make a bicycle basket or even a birdhouse. Pinterest has plenty of great ideas to turn your old yard sign into something useful or beautiful. Recycled Coroplast projects are a fun and environmentally-friendly way to get in the DIY spirit. 90005 90002 90082 90005 90008 Downsides of corrugated plastic 90009 90002 We recommend Coroplast for a wide variety of projects, but it’s certainly not a fit for everyone.Here are some reasons you may consider a different sign material: 90005 90088 90089 Coroplast board 90003 does not look expensive or permanent 90004, because it is neither of those things. We do not recommend using corrugated plastic for the main, permanent sign for your business. First of all, it will not last forever and will show its age after about a year. Second of all, it looks (and is) cheap. Read about materials better suited for businesses here. 90092 90089 Photographs can be printed onto corrugated plastic, but it is 90003 not the best medium for photography printing 90004.Vector images are much better suited to the aesthetic of Coroplast. If your main priority is that a photograph looks great, we’d recommend opting for foam core instead. 90092 90089 Coroplast board 90003 can bend and warp 90004, especially if exposed to intense heat or left in a hot car. If you need a material that will remain rigid no matter what, we recommend Sintra. 90092 90089 Coroplast may be non-toxic and easily recyclable, but it’s 90003 production is not particularly environmentally friendly 90004.Polypropylene is among the least environmentally damaging plastics to produce due to its low density and thermal resistance, but it is not biodegradable and also does produce substantial carbon waste during production. If environmental sustainability is an important factor in your project, consider using recycled Coroplast or an Eco-Plastic material rather than purchasing new corrugated plastic boards. 90092 90105 90002 90005 90008 Ways to display Coroplast signs 90009 90002 Corrugated plastic board is incredibly versatile and gives you many options for hanging.Here are some of the most common ways to display corrugated plastic signs. 90005 90002 90003 Hooks 90004 — One of the most common ways that you see coroplast signs hanging up is with punctured holes in the sign. The proprietor of the sign will often puncture holes in the sign so that they can insert either a hook, grommet, or zip tie to hang it out. The only problem is that when you poke holes in your coroplast sign, they can start to deteriorate more quickly over time. To prevent further tears and also give the sign a more refined look, you can use grommets.90005 90002 90003 A-Frame signs 90004 — A-Frame signs are especially useful if you would like to display your sign on a sidewalk during business hours but take it down after closing. They also give you the possibility of changing out the image on a regular basis — this is a great solution if your business cycles through specials and sales! 90005 90002 90003 Wire mounting stakes 90004 — The classic yard sign is printed on corrugated plastic and then mounted to wire stakes, which are then lightly hammered into the earth.90005 90002 90125 90005 90008 Caring for corrugated plastic signs 90009 90002 If you want to make sure that your Coroplast signs stay looking bright and new for years of use, there are a few tips that you should follow for keeping your sign in top condition. 90005 90002 90003 Wipe it Down 90004 — If you are planning on reusing your sign outdoors or using it outside occasionally, you are going to want to make sure that you wipe it down every once in a while. If you are using your Coroplast sign primarily as a temporary outdoor display, you should be sure to that you take it inside to wipe off any dirt or debris.You do not need any special kind of cleaner, just a little soap, some water, and light scrubbing will do the trick.You can also use a solution of vinegar and water to kill any germs or bacteria that may be clinging to your sign . 90005 90002 90003 Proper Storage 90004 — If you are using your coroplast sign seasonally or occasionally, how are you supposed to store it when it’s not in use? The best way that you can store your sign is to keep it somewhere safe where it will not be smashed underneath or between anything.Keep in mind that the sign is durable and incredibly resilient to impact, but excess pressure for long periods of time could still make your sign bend or crumple. If you can lay it flat or stand it up against a wall, that’s perfect. If you can store your sign at about room temperature, that is ideal for keeping your sign looking new the longest, but you should not have any issues storing it in a storage room, shed, or garage that experiences changes in temperature. That’s just another pointer for keeping your sign looking better for longer.90005 90002 90003 Avoid Folding 90004 — If your sign was not designed to be folded, do not fold it or keep it folded. Folding can cause your sign to wear out faster and lose its flat-lying form. 90005 90143 90144 90145 90003 Have more questions about Coroplast and how you can use it for your next project? Leave a comment below or give us a call at! 90004 90148 90149 Like This? Sign up to read more 90150.